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English is increasingly being spoken throughout Juba and is now taught in the schools. Many of the road signs are in English however you will need some basic Arabic if you want to shop in the market. For more information about Juba Arabic see the reading guide.

Geography

Climate
Southern Sudan has a microclimate with rainfall substantially higher than in Khartoum. The dry season generally runs from November to April and the weather is generally hot with temperature ranges from 18-44 degrees Celcius. During the wet season, usually from April to October, temperatures during the day are still comfortable for residents not to use sweaters, however, the nights can get a little chilly and you might require a light blanket.

Health
As a result of the war, there is a shortage of reliable medicines, trained doctors and clinics in Juba and even more so in other parts of Southern Sudan. Malaria, hepatitis, cholera, dysentery, and bilharzias are common and it is highly recommended that you seek expert medical advice before travelling.

Recommended vaccinations are yellow fever, typhoid, tetanus, Hepatitis A & B, Rabies and meningitis. Be aware that some neighbouring countries require proof of yellow fever vaccines especially if you have been in Sudan – check with your local travel medicine centre before departing. Malaria is endemic, and prophylaxis medications are strongly recommended along with a mosquito net and repellent cream. The water supply is unsafe and not treated, make sure you either boil water or use purification tablets. Bottled water is readily available in the market and at all accommodation sites.

In the unfortunate event of illness there are 2 private clinics at Mango and Civicon. The National Health Institute (NHI) is safe and reliable for testing including malaria, giardia etc. While Juba has a few hospitals you would be wise to seek other medical advice before you visit the main hospital which is in a very basic condition. Juba has no ambulance service and no dental services.

Safety
At the time of writing Juba is at UN security phase 3 which necessitates precautionary measures including use of hand-held radios and at times a curfew. Needless to say common sense should prevail and care taken to avoid walking late at night or driving in some parts. There are frequent road blocks late at night and given the risk of instability the situation can deteriorate in a short time. Take extra care driving on roads as other vehicles and pedestrians are not used to the increasing levels of traffic as an accident can have severe implications including angry mobs attacking the car. On a more positive note, theft is rare and people are extremely friendly especially children. If in doubt ask and note that humanitarian agency security staff will generally share information on request.

Tribally-based violence is not new to Southern Sudan, and poses no direct threat to staff. However, as a result of the war there is now a proliferation of small arms (hand held automatic weapons, especially AK-47 assault rifles) so those tribal/clan conflicts over land use, cattle theft and other issues are now fought with automatic weapons instead of spears putting into significant danger any staff caught in the wrong place at the wrong time. Much of this fighting is seasonal, and is closely monitored by the Host government. There is significant effort being put into the disarming of the civilian population, but this process is taking some time. Southern Sudan remains one of the most landmine affected areas in the world, and an extensive de-mining operation is underway to clear priority routes and areas. However, you must remain vigilant even in areas that have been cleared, and adhere to the advice provided locally.

Crime is not as big an issue in most parts of Southern Sudan as it is in other parts of Africa however the crime rate is expected to increase with the increasing profile of the international community. The usual precautions apply – no gratuitous displays of wealth, locking of vehicles and accommodation when not in use, and caution when moving by foot in urban areas, especially at night.

The population of Southern Sudan is overwhelmingly in favour of increased international participation in the reconstruction and development of Southern Sudan, and a warm welcome from the locals is almost guaranteed to any international visitor. However, staff are advised to maintain an awareness that for reasons listed above Southern Sudan remains (and will continue to remain) a hazardous environment in which to live and work, and conditions can change with little or no notice. The keys to a safe and productive experience in Southern Sudan are individual preparation, adherence to security advice, patience and a sense of humour.

Visas
Entry visas should be obtained prior to travel from your nearest Sudanese Embassy. Many people arrive in Juba on a Southern Sudanese Relief & Rehabilitation Commission (SSRRC) pass (also known as the ‘blue pass’) which grants the holder entry into Southern Sudan. Be aware that this pass is not valid in other parts of Sudan nor is it an officially valid visa and if you plan to visit Khartoum it is insufficient documentation. The visa situation in Sudan is subject to change at very short notice, for instance visas issued by the Sudanese Embassy in Nairobi have recently been declared invalid in Khartoum. Citizens of the United States of America may face additional obstacles obtaining Sudanese visas.

All visitors need to register within 3 days of arrival at the local Immigration office.

Contact details for the Sudanese Embassy in Nairobi:
http://www.sudanembassynrb.org, 254-(0)20 575 225/118

Juba International Airport
There is no carrousel in Juba airport. Luggage is collected in a quite frantic and chaotic way. Whilst finalising the entry formalities, be sure not to miss your luggage which will be collected at a side door behind the custom counter.

Be ready to open your bags for inspection at the custom, even if you have nothing to declare. Before leaving the custom area, there is usually an official checking of luggage tags and claim slips. The claim slips will be kept by the officials after verification.

If you require transport on arrival, there are a number of drivers offering taxi services as well as a car hire company based at the airport. Be very clear to agree on a price before you depart, as there have been reports of passengers being charged up to $50 for short trips.

Travelling to Juba
Juba can be accessed by air from Nairobi (Kenya), Entebbe (Uganda), Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) and Khartoum on a number of commercial airlines. Although travel by road is possible from Uganda it is not advisable due to the frequency of attacks on vehicles.

Jet Link (East African)
• Daily (except Sunday)
• Nairobi (1000) –Juba (1130/1230)- Nairobi (1430)
• $765 return or $368 one way
• Contact: info@jetlink.co.ke, 254-(0)20 607 900 or 0720 600 700/800/900

African Express
• Tuesday & Friday
• Nairobi – Juba – Nairobi
• $730 return
• Contact africanexpress@charleston.co.ke, 254-(0)20 317 305/ 227 546 or 822 481/2 (Airport)

Marsland Aviation
• Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday & Friday
• Nairobi (1230) – Juba – Khartoum
• Daily flights to Khartoum (except Sunday)
• Contact: www.marsland-aviation.com, 254- (0)20- 822491/2 (Airport) or 254-(0)20-319212-5, 211783, 214212, 216 936, 214 036.

Sudan Airways
• Juba-Khartoum
• Khartoum-Juba-Nairobi-Juba-Khartoum (Mon & Fri), $367 return
• Tel: +254- 240024/253029/340357

Dairo Air
• Daily flights (except Saturday)
• Entebbe-Juba-Entebbe
• $440 return
• Contact Juba office on 254-(0)477 105 899 or dairoair@utlonline.org/admin@dasair-ug.com

Eagle Air
• Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday & Sunday
• Entebbe-Juba-Entebbe
• $440 return

Ethiopian Airlines
• Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday
• Addis – Juba – Addis
• $490 return

Delta Connection
• Monday, Wednesday & Friday
• Nairobi – Juba – Nairobi (also serves Malakal, Rumbek and Yei)
• Special rates for new 737 service, contact deltajuba@deltaconnection.co.ke (based on Sunflower Camp), +256(0)477 104 064 or +256(0)477 112 848 or info@deltaconnection.co.ke, +254(0)722 204405 or +254(0)735 340 958

There are a number of travel agents in Juba including Muthiaga Travel (mtljuba@yahoo.co.uk) and Charlestown, both located in Juba town.

Car Hire
There are several car hire companies in Juba, prices are high however most rentals do include a driver. The fuel supply in Juba is unreliable and not of a high standard, during the rainy season roads are not suitable for sedans and you would need to rent a 4WD vehicle.

C&A Car Hire
• Based at the airport
• Rates from around $100 per day

Juba Driving School & Car Hire
• Based in Juba
• Contact 254-(0)477 10 3447

Muthiaga Travel
• Arranges car hire (see contact details above)

Accommodation
While there are a number of camps and hotels in Juba be aware that during peak periods (conferences, meetings etc) there can be extremely limited availability. Budget accommodation in particular can be difficult to find with many camps offering full board and lodging. The following information has been obtained from a number of sources:

Juba Hotel
• Location: Airport Road, Juba.
• Telephone: +249 (0) 811-820264
• Accommodation: 28 rooms.
• Single room 135 USD.
• Double room 175 USD.
• Long term stay negotiable
• Restaurant, no bar.

Equatoria Hotel
• Location: Ministry Road, Juba.
• Telephone: +249 (0) 811-820674, Tele-Fax: +249 (0) 811-823088.
• Accommodation: 20 rooms
• Single room 135 USD
• Double room 200 USD
• Suite 320 USD
• Restaurant.

South Sudan Hotel
• Location: Ministry Road, Juba.
• Telephone: +256(0)47117349
• Accommodation: 41 rooms
• Single room 165 USD, VIP room 205 USD & Double 225 USD (incl. breakfast)
• Restaurant & rates for half and full-board
• Bookings: southernhotel@yahoo.com

AFEX Nile Camp
• East of Malakal Road on end of White Nile (just north of port), Juba.
• Tented camp with accommodations for up to 150 guests.
• Hard unit bungalows and ensuite tents are being constructed.
• Reservations: jubabookings@afexgroup.com or +254-20-3878313/4 (Nairobi).
• Rates: UN standard single 65 USD; non-UN standard single 100 USD (both rates include three meals and laundry service).
• Internet cafe $8USD/hr.

Civicon/Oasis Camp

Bros and Company Camp
• Southeast part of Juba on White Nile River north of Nile Bridge.
• Single tent $60 USD, ensuite $100 USD. Includes 3 meals and laundry.
• Satellite TV and bar service.
• Internet 3 minutes for 100 SD.
• Bookings: broshotel@yahoo.com.

Nile Gardens
• Located between AFEX Nile and Mango camp.
• 50 rooms made of brick with ensuite showers and toilet.
• Rates $110-125 per day.
• Restaurant, conference room, Internet and laundry.
• Manager: titinacbit@yahoo.com

RA International
• Accommodation: In prefabs. 105 rooms
• Rates: 100 USD (single) and 120 USD (double) 150 USD ensuite per day. Meals are 35 USD a day, laundry extra. Plus 10% VAT.
• Parking and security included.
• Catering service, restaurant and bar.
• Trained First aid staff on site.
• Bookings: Mangotreereservations@raints.com.

Juba Raha Camp
• Located in town centre near the Customs Office and across from the RTC Office.
• Accommodation: 125 tents with ensuite shower and toilet.
• Rates 150 USD/double, 130 USD/single, 100 USD/3 months+. Rates include 3 meals and daily laundry.
• Two x 100-person conference/seminar halls with audiovisual screen and microphone accessories for 400 USD/day. Coffee and biscuits included.
• Email: palmsparadise@accesskenya.com.

Rajaf Camp
• Located at the old Rajaf Night Club (behind the Basketball stadium), High Malakal.
• Accommodation: ranging from small individual tents/shared facilities to large en-suite safari tents
• Rates: $65-$120 per night, full board and laundry. Bar Facilities. Internet facilities will be available to residents shortly.
• Bookings: sudanaccomodation@unityresourcesgroup.com

Mango Camp
• Located: close to AFEX (next road across), adjacent to SSRRC. Lovely site on the Nile; Mango trees provide a cool, shady spot to relax or work in (beware the occasional falling mango!)
• Accommodation: extra-long en-suite safari tents (single or double occupancy) with en suite flushing chemical toilet and shower (from April 06: fan and power socket).
• 16 traditional Tukuls en-suite (toilet and shower), fan and power sockets.
• Rates: Tents: $120 per person per night, full board and laundry ($80 per person double occupancy). Tukuls: $150 per person per night (good discounts for long-term occupancy). Bar facilities. Internet facilities available to residents.
• Bookings: sudanaccomodation@unityresourcesgroup.com

White Nile Lodge
• Location: Atlabara ‘C’ near Juba University exactly opposite Capital FM radio station.
• Accommodation: 30 hard rooms and 10 dome tents
• Single room 25 USD and double room is 40 USD. No meals provided but can be supplied on demand.
• Planning to expand to a new location along river Nile near Afex in April and it will start off with 40 tents.
• Contact: Lagu and Justin: (+249) 0915030049 (mobile). Landline: (+249) 811-20024/23383.

Nile Comfort Inn

Heron International Camp

Sunflower Camp

Shopping
Juba has a number of open-air markets and supermarkets where most basic items can be purchased, however it can be a challenge to find certain things such as dairy products (yoghurt etc) and visitors are encouraged to bring in anything they cannot do without (see Medical section for details on essential items). The most useful shopping places include:

Customs Market
The main market in Juba situated at the hub of matatus and buses from Uganda & Kenya, Customs market continues to expand with traders continually bringing in produce from neighbouring countries especially Uganda. It is the market where you can change money easily at money changers set up at the entrance to the market (although there have been recent reports of counterfeit dollars being exchanged). You can find non-perishable items like clothes, household items such as plastic ware, buckets, cleaning products etc and some toiletries. Customs, as the market is generally referred to, also has a large furniture section with wooden furniture and cane chairs. In Customs you can purchase perishable items including meat (go early when meat is at its freshest as there is no cold storage), fish (both fresh from the Nile and brought in from Uganda, once again best purchased early) and fruit/vegetables. There is a regular supply of onions, tomatoes, cabbage, bananas, pineapples, guava and mangoes (when in season) which is sold along with rice, salt, sugar, eggs and beans. With the improving trade route from Uganda stalls can be found with avocado, green beans, cucumber, zucchini, aubergine (eggplant), lettuce and apples.

Konyo Konyo Market
Closer to the river-side, Konyo Konyo market has the same fish, meat and fruit/vegetables as can be found in Customs. At the entrance to Customs there are traders selling decoratively woven baskets and floor mats. Most hardware items can be found in Konyo Konyo along with the usual clothing and toiletry stalls.

Juba Town market
Situated in the town centre Juba Town market is smaller and easier to navigate but as a result does not have the range of products found in the other open-air markets although the quieter atmosphere can be a bonus.

Millenium Supermarket
While this shop has the same range of products found at most stores it also stocks chocolate and occasionally one can find baklava.

Amen Supermarket
Just opposite ‘Salvation Automatic Bakery’ is the partner in a heavenly duo called Amen Supermarket. A Ugandan owned enterprise, Amen stocks a good supply of food items including tinned food, cereal and juices as well as a reasonable range of wine and some spirits. You can also find toilet paper, bottled water and household cleaning items. The Pringles range is impressive!

Navaisha Supermarket
Is across the road from Amen and has a similar range of products.

Jit Supermarket
A newly opened supermarket next to Juba Raha Hotel, Jit advertises to have ‘everything under one roof’ and it almost does. Open to the public, Jit stocks a large number of toiletries including good quality soaps and shampoos and, perhaps more importantly for some, alcohol including beer, wine and spirits. Prices are reasonable given the alternative cost of having to bring things in by air yourself (and usually paying for excess luggage) and the owners promise to increase their stock with electronics/home appliances, cigarettes and perfumes.

Money
Until recently Sudanese currency was the Dinar, prior to this it was the Sudanese pound. As of January 2007 a new Sudanese pound has been introduced and is in circulation.

1,000 (old pounds) = 100 (dinars) = 1 new Sudanese pound

US dollars can be easily changed in Customs market and at banks as well as used at local shops and restaurants. Be sure to have notes above the year 2000 otherwise you can experience problems exchanging them, smaller denominations can sometimes attract a lower exchange rate. Current exchange rate is $1 = 210 dinar. A soda at a restaurant averages around 300 SD and a beer around 500 SD. The exchange can vary from day to day so make sure that you check the official exchange rate before your departure.

Please note there are no cash machine/ATM facilities in the airport or anywhere in Southern Sudan and credit cards are not accepted in Southern Sudan.

Banking
Due to regulations imposed on a number of countries including Sudan relating to financial transactions and sponsorship of terrorism, banking restrictions operate throughout the country which make it difficult to transfer funds from Sudan to overseas banks. There are also no foreign ATMs in Sudan. A number of Sudanese banks operate in Juba including Islamic banks. Unless you are planning to operate a business or stay in Juba for a long time it is not necessary to open a bank account.

All banks are located in the Juba town area. Of the many banks around, the Nile Commercial Bank is used by many agencies to pay staff through its relationship with Stanbic Bank and Kenyan Commercial Bank is popular with visitors as it is linked to a Nairobi bank and therefore not subject to transfer restrictions. The Somali ‘Dahabshil’ system is an efficient global network of money transfer that can be used in case of emergency. It has been used by many Sudanese to transfer money during the war.

Entertainment

Radio

Juba has a number of radio stations:

88.2 BBC World
89.0 Capital FM
91.0 Bakhita Radio
100 Miraya FM

Television

While most hotels/camps have digital television there is a local television channel 1.

Newspaper
The Juba Post is a weekly paper that is always an interesting read with local and international news and sport purchase it in the market or at Jit supermarket. The ‘going home’ section contains stories about returning refugees and displaced persons coming back to South Sudan.

Sport
There are a number of groups that meet regularly in Juba to exercise – rugby, volleyball, football/soccer and even a Hash House Harriers run on Saturday afternoon. The best way to find out what’s going on is to subscribe the local google group – Jubalicious.

Restaurants
The variety of restaurants in Juba continues to improve and the selection is far better than in Khartoum. Most of the residential camps offer buffet meals for visitors for $12 - $15. Many camps rely on produce originating from Uganda and Kenya and therefore the standard can vary considerably. Beer (Tusker/Bell/Pilsener) is served everywhere but depending on the power supply it may or may not be cold.

Cafe de Paris
Yes there is a French cafe in town serving pizzas along with pasta and other meat dishes. Be prepared to wait but the avocado entree is a nice way to fill in the time. Beer and wine is sold (no BYO). They also do a reasonable coffee in the morning.

Rock City
Up near the Jebel (go past Customs Market onto the Yei Rd & turn right before the Jebel) is Rock City. The best feature of this restaurant is the view and be prepared to drink your beers warm! They have recently been advertising Friday night Chinese specials however most nights the standard fare is chicken, nyoma choma or fish.
Contact Elizabeth for details on +256 (0)477 103 927

Kengeles Restaurant
Situated at the Civicon (Oasis) camp, this is linked to the popular chain in Kenya/Uganda serving decent meals including fish, burgers, chicken & all day breakfast. The setting is also good for a drink and management are keen to ensure that a reasonably high standard of service is met.

Mango Camp
A popular Friday night drinking venue, Mango does serve meals but it’s the bar that attracts the most attention with the expected range of drinks and good music.

Eden Restaurant
This Habesha restaurant produces injera of a high quality given the limited supplies in Juba. A combination (mixed) dish shared with a group makes for a good night. Pity about the (lack of) atmosphere and loud generator – but the food makes up for it!

RA Village
This bar/pizza joint has a lovely setting with a well-stocked bar, wood fired pizza oven and a much appreciated absence of plastic chairs and tables. They also host the occasional karaoke night.

Da Vinci Restaurant
A relative newcomer to the Juba dining scene, Da Vinci has one of the best settings along the Nile and has a very well set up restaurant and bar. The menu is extensive including pizzas and if you get here in time for sunset you’ll see the Nile at its best.

Sudan Council of Churches
The Council of Churches (Palacia) has been running a very popular canteen which serves quick lunches. Meals including beans, meat and fish with rice or bread are cheap and reasonable.

Women’s Self Help Canteen
This canteen in Juba town market serves similar fare to what is found at Council of Churches. The bonus is that you are also contributing to a women’s charity.

Hotel Villa Vee
Has a pleasant setting under the mango trees and is very popular with many of the Kenyan workers in Juba as it serves all dishes with ugali. The fish stew is particularly good and fresh from the Nile.

Smart Camp
Close to the airport, Smart Camp is run by Kenyans and serves fare such as nyoma choma and warm-ish beers. The large TV which often shows sports seems to be a big attraction.

Kololo bar
Opposite the Government Ministry buildings this bar has a regular lunch crowd from the ministries and serves fish, beans & meat (usually goat). Of an evening it can turn into a rather rowdy nightclub with loud music. The absence of international workers can be explained by the fact that it has been labelled ‘off limits’ for UN staff.

Street food
There are plenty of small shops in Juba serving tea (chai), sodas and local fare which includes beans (foul pronounced ‘fool’), meat including goat and chicken, fish with rice and bread. You can also find stalls selling chapatis, corn and bread. Wempy in Juba town sells shwarma and fried chicken which makes for a good take away meal.

Sightseeing
While some would suggest this is an odd topic to have in a guide book to Juba, there are a few nice spots from which to observe Juba. First choice is usually under a mango tree by the Nile but the Jebel is also a nice spot to take in Juba.

Photography
There are lots of good photos to be taken in Juba however it is courteous to always ask before taking someone’s photo. If you have a digital camera showing someone their photo tends to generate lots of amusement. Conversely, taking photos without asking permission is insulting and may result in angry gestures or, in the market, an angry crowd.

Basic Arabic Words
Salaam malaikum - Good morning
Malaikum salaam - (reply) good morning
Kayf - How are you?
Tamam - Good
Ana kwais - I’m well
Inta kwais - Are you well?
Aywa/ naam - Ok/yes
La - No
Be kam? - How much?
Shukran - Thank you
Skukran jazeelan - Thank you very much

What to bring

The range of personal and other items available for purchase in Juba is very limited, even more so in field locations – at the moment basic toiletries, basic pharmaceuticals, a limited range of clothing and a growing range of foodstuffs is available.

You might wish to consider bringing sufficient supplies of things to make you comfortable and happy, including:

- anti-malarial prophylaxis + insect repellant + river blindness tablets
- adequate sun protection – hat/sunscreen etc
- personal water filter
- oral rehydration salts (gastrolyte or another brand)
- appropriate medical kit, including syringes
- non-water disinfectant
- mosquito net – these are sometimes but not always supplied
- copies of passport (hard copy + on flash/USB) + two photos for passport.
- sufficient supplies of personal items / toiletries (condoms not regularly available)
- chocolate / energy bars for treats
- vitamins / supplements
- books / games / movies / music etc.

Bring a small travel umbrella for the downpours that occur frequently in the wet season and sporadically in the dry season. At least one hand flash light and perhaps a head lamp is handy for those times when power might not be on at night. You can get different sized batteries of mixed quality in Juba.

Clothing

Reasonably conservative dress is appropriate for Juba, not only for cultural reasons but also due to the heat. Cotton clothing is recommended where possible, to ensure that you are comfortable in the heat. Very few of offices have air conditioning and though they usually have fans the office environment can still be very warm. It can also be cool at times and it is important to be prepared for this eg bring a sweater / jumper.

Bring flip-flops or equivalent for the getting to/from and in/out of showers at the accommodation camps and for casual wear, and consider more substantial sandals (eg Tevas or equivalent) for walking on the sub-surfaced roads outside of the compounds. In addition you will need suitable footwear for work, depending on the nature of your position ie mostly office based or mostly outdoors based.

Valuable / sentimental jewellery and similar items are not recommended.

Towels are usually but not always supplied at camps. A light bathrobe and / or sarong can be very useful and versatile.

Reading Guide

Watson, Richard L. 1989. An introduction to Juba Arabic.

Watson, Richard L. and Louis Biajo Ola. 1985. Juba Arabic for beginners.

Johnson, Douglas Hamilton The Root Causes of Sudan's Civil Wars

Websites

www.gurtong.com

Y of Juba website http://www.yofj.com/

http://www.unjlc.org/sudan/maps/catalogue/

http://www.southsudanmaps.org/

http://www.theeye.co.ug/dr_stockley_malaria_mozzies.php (for malaria info)

About the Author/Photographer

Melissa Phillips has worked in Juba since December 2005. With thanks to Richard Taylor, John Brouwer and Obed Diener who provided their fantastic Juba photos.

http://www.southsudanmaps.org/Juba.html

http://www.unjlc.org/sudan